The Club Model 20- The Door Club (Brass)

I bought one of these 30years ago because I was living in an unsafe area with a back door that opened onto an open stairwell leading to an alley. It worked well and I felt safe. I live on a much safer area but the back door isn't very secure and I remembered The Club I had decades ago. It's exactly the same. Pretty easy to install if you have a drill. A simple way to add a measure of security without drilling out a door to fit additional locks.

works great

The Door Club is an absolute necessity for your home. This device (and others of its type) provides the best protection against door break-ins available. Dollar for Dollar, your can not beat it's value. This is an effective door barricade, as the heavy gauge metal bar inserts into a hole (3/4" wide, 2" deep, drilled by YOU during installation) in the floor - stopping the door from moving any further even if the locks, door jamb, and frame have been heavily damaged and splintered.Installation was very easy and quick, especially on hardwood or plywood (under carpet/linoleum) floors. Concrete floors will require considerably more drill time . You will need a power drill, Phillips head drill bit, and Wood Boring or Concrete Masonry drill bits (3/4"). You should also have 1/8" size drill bits for starting screw holes on your door and floor. The Door Club comes with all the mounting hardware necessary, and even includes Super Glue (to coat the outside of the Metal Floor Insert piece before sliding it down into the drilled hole), and long security hinge screws for you to replace the existing hinge screws on your door. This will help reinforce your door by fastening the hinges deeper into your door frame, providing added security and ensuring that the lock/jamb is the weakest point in the door. Why is this important? Because if an intruder is trying to smash open the door, the weaker lock/jamb will give but the hinges will hold and remain intact, swinging the door open and ensuring that it stays standing, while the Door Club prevents the door from actually opening.As a point of preference, I placed the holder clip very high up on my door instead of down by floor. This made it easier to see and retrieve the Door Club when it was it is not inserted into the floor.To people worried about drilling a small hole into their wood floor, honestly, get over it. This is a security device. If you value your wood floors more than your security, then why are you considering this device, and reading this review? This device, and others of its kind, is hands-down better than any deadbolt, chain, door wedge/stopper. And it is priced at 1/5th of the cost of the equally effective ONGARD product.I hate to be over-dramatic, but if you love your family, I recommend you get THIS device (or another of its kind) for all accessible entry doors.

My current rental house has a hollow steel front door with a window. It might as well be a screen door for the protection it offers from a break in. I installed the Prime Line Prod. U 9539 Strike-3 Deadbolt And Door Frame Reinforcer which does a great job strengthening the deadbolt area, but the glass in the door makes it easy to break the glass and unlock the door.I looked at the various "kick bar" and "door bar" options that push against the door at the door knob, but those are relatively large and awkward. The Door Club (and the similar floor-mounted door blocks) was more appealing since it is less obtrusive.I chose the Door Club over the other options because of the relatively low-profile hardware required on the floor. I didn't want a 1/2" thick slab of plastic or metal on the floor. The design of the Door Club is great in that regard.As some other reviews have indicated, installation can be relatively easy, or quite a chore, depending on your type of floor and the tools you have available. My house has tile floors on a wood subfloor--not one of the best combinations. Because of the wood subfloor, I chose to install the metal reinforcing plate.Drilling through the tile floor required carbide tipped "glass and tile" drill bits for the small screw holes. I used the 3/16" bit for the four corner holes in the tile so that the screws wouldn't crack the tile, and then made a 1/8" hole in the subfloor for the screws to bite on.For the main 3/4" center hole, the instructions say to use a 3/4" carbide tipped masonry bit. I couldn't find a carbide bit nearly that large at my hardware store--only 10" long hammer drill bits seemed to be that large. But Home Depot had a very cool Ridgid brand Diamond Tile Drill Bit--it's a thin hole saw with diamond grit.After buying $35 in drill bits (see photos), I used water to constantly lubricate the bit and very slowly drilled the 5 holes. The holes came out incredibly clean--much better than I expected.Once I had the holes drilled, the installation of the reinforcing plate went smoothly, and my door is now as burglar resistant as it is going to get.I now realize I should have ordered the 'antique brass' color--the standard brass is incredibly yellow and shiny, which I don't really like. But Amazon only had the standard brass at the time. But if it prevents a break in, I don't care what color it is.

Easy to use. Mount the holder any place on the door that works for you. I put a silicone band around the door mounted holder so it doesn’t slide from side to side as I open and close the door. This thing is otherwise perfect! You will feel and literally be safe and secure. Join the club.