LulzBot Taulman Bridge Nylon 3D Printer Filament, 1 lb. Reel, 3 mm, Natural

This filament is amazing for the price. I have been getting great results without any notable warping.Your mileage may vary, but here is the method that works for me;1) Bake the filament in the oven on the low setting (150-170F) overnight, EVEN IF YOU JUST OPENED IT NEW. If it sits, exposed for >24 hours you must rebake it again. I usually bake it then put it in sealed food container with silica gel that has Bowden coupler and tube attached which feeds direct to the extruder.2) Bed with PEI sheet with generous Elmers purple glue stick. 80C Bed Temp3) All metal hotend (I have 3mm e3d v6) set to 270C. Turn print cooling fan off.4) OPTIONAL: Plastic bag over printer (or enclosure) to regulate ambient temps. Not sure if it helps but its working for me.5) Print slow @ 30mm/s.Results for me have been perfect parts with no visible warping. Printing with 3 perimeters (1.5mm thick walls) and 50% infill makes for rigid and crazy strong parts. Just be sure that you respect how quickly this stuff can become saturated with water if left exposed. Good news is that you can always bring it back to life at any time by baking it in the oven as described above.

My experience with the Bridge has been nothing but positive.I was expecting a learning curve like NinjaFlex but to my surprise Bridge is by far the easiest Filament I have ever used with the obvious exception of PLA.I print on my Ultimaker 2 with the Olsson Block. I specifically tested the Bridge on a 0.4mm Nozzle only because it's the most common sized nozzle you see on Printers of all kinds.Taulman suggests printing at 80% of ABS speeds but on Ultimaker forums you see people say that the recommended speeds are 30-50mm/s. In my experience all those numbers are false, Taulman is 100% right in fact I have even printed Bridge at 90mm/s with no issues. I had my doubts that the slight flexible properties might cause buckling at such high speeds on a Bowden system but...nope!The biggest and only challenge with Taulman Bridge is Bed Adhesion, here's the list of all the methods I tried -1) ABS Slurry - I knew this was not going to work but I tried it anyway cause my Bed had some slurry on it when I received the Filament in the mail. Slurry has zero adhesion irrespective of the Bed Temps, no surprise.2) Hairspray - Don't even bother.3) Glue-Stick - Now this is interesting cause Glue Stick has some PVA content in it yet I found it to be exactly as Slurry. I found no noticeable improvements with Glue-Sick, absolutely zero actually.4) PVA Glue - I finally tried Wood Glue and it worked beautifully, I mean PVA FTW. All warping solved forever with PVA. Now people suggest a thin coat but I find a thick multi-layered coat to be necessary for absolute certainty. I also suggest you apply this thick layer on Kapton tape as it is a mess and with Kapton you can just re-apply periodically without ruining your Glass bed.That's it, I find Taulman Bridge to be absolutely fantastic. Adhesion and Water Absorption issues aside Bridge is amazing. I don't need to talk about it's Physical properties cause if you didn't know about it, you wouldn't be interested in buying it.Last note to Taulman - Nylon is $2 a Kg (Raw Material), extrusion costs aside I find the pricing to be quite over the top. I think such pricing will change once 3D Printers are considered as Machines and not Toys with Filaments having Consumer Electronic type pricing.

Fast printing and a good value. You will need to clean the head often (get out those needle nose pliers!), but makes great prints. I've often said "Wow, cool" when pulling parts off the bed with this stuff, so that must mean something. Contiguous prints (read: the print head stays working constantly on the same print) work great... anything with gaps, not so much. You must make sure to use a good release agent to get things off the bed with this sort of material, but if you are reading this... you probably already know. :')Happy Printing!

Nice and strong. I was able to print this with a bit of tweaking on a Lulzbot Taz 5. Parts did want to warp, but printed ok with a large enough brim. And a large part had some layer delamination, but I fixed it by upping the temperature about 10C from the lulzbot default profile for Bridge to the temperature Taulman recommends. Parts are really strong, a bit flexible.

Works great as advertised, it seems to warp really bad on glass, but blue painter's tape helps it to stick better and warp a bit less. The material itself is slightly flexible but will not break even under some of the toughest conditions. I am excited to try using fabric dyes to color my finished prints.

Work just fine

Get your Elmer's purple disappearing glue stick out, set the hot end to 240F and print! Results are outstandingly crisp and solid. Absolutely strong and light enough to print foot wear! But beware, while you can use this product to print footwear for Cinderella, it also has an issue with turning into a pumpkin! Once left out for 24 to 48 hours it absorbs enough moisture from the atmosphere to become unusable. So be sure to keep it dry as drying it can take a week or more with simple desiccants.

Great material, durable, easy to print, strong.